Suavia: three vineyards, three sisters, one Garganega

Soave, March 2024

In the heart of Soave Classico, on the eastern hills, the Tessari family has grown Garganega for generations. Today Suavia is run by the three daughters, Meri, Alessandra and Valentina, each with a different specialism. "Taking on this legacy came naturally to us," Meri told us. "We joined the company to modernise it, giving our grapes a clear identity."

That identity has a name: "I Luoghi", the places.

An experiment in precision

The idea is simple and rigorous. Three small vineyards they own, three wines from the same grape, Garganega, vinified separately but in exactly the same way: 14 days of fermentation in steel, 12 months of maturation, 24 months of bottle ageing. Two thousand bottles in all. If the wines differ, only the place makes the difference.

To read the soils, the sisters worked with soil scientist Giuseppe Benciolini, together with Valentina, the estate's winemaker.

Three vineyards, 2020 vintage

Fittà

A closely guarded single hectare, with vines about seventy years old. The soil has two layers: the first developed and structured, the second rich in weathered basalt. In the glass: pale straw, citrus and grapefruit, a healthy rusticity and sulphurous notes; on the palate sharp acidity, crunch and a long finish.

Castellaro

Planted in 1970, between 200 and 220 metres, on moderately deep, stony soil. The most elegant of the three: straw with golden glints, white peach and apple, high acidity keeping the concentrated fruit in check.

Tremenalto

In the Moscatello area, about two hectares facing west, between 80 and 130 metres, on a steep slope. Three different soil types over a base of weathered basalt. The most exuberant: ripe yellow fruit, pronounced minerality, depth and tension, an almond finish.

What they teach

The research showed that the three soils share the same volcanic origin but express it in very different ways. Talking about "volcanic soil" in general, then, is not enough. Soave is not one wine: it is a mosaic, and Suavia has bottled three of its pieces.

Why it stays with you

• A method anyone can follow. Same grape, same cellar, three places: even someone who knows nothing about soil can see the difference in the glass.
• Three people, one voice. Three sisters with different skills signing a shared project.
• Rarity with a reason. Two thousand bottles are not a marketing exercise but the limit of three small vineyards.

Suavia is part of the volcanic Veneto we map here: Volcanic Veneto, three territories of basalt and bubbles.